Where Yarmulkes And Kilts Collide

Single-malt frum: A few of the many Orthodox Jews who attended WhiskyFest last week. Courtesy of WhiskyFest

Single-malt frum: A few of the many Orthodox Jews who attended WhiskyFest last week. Courtesy of WhiskyFest

by Gamliel Kronemer
Special To The Jewish Week

The economy may be tanking and consumer spending plummeting, but the chance to taste a good, smooth Scotch nonetheless drew some 1,800 people to the Marriott Marquis in Times Square last week for the 11th annual WhiskyFest.

Last Tuesday’s festival (it retains the old-fashioned spelling for whiskey), which is organized by Malt Advocate Magazine and sponsored by the Wall Street Journal, is one of the largest distilled-spirits events in the world, bringing together some of the world’s top distillers to present their wares to an enthusiastic public paying $120 per person (or $160 for a “VIP” ticket). This year’s attendees had the opportunity to taste 230 different whiskeys from around the world, not to mention numerous rums, vodkas, gins, brandies and beers.
After decades

of flagging sales, the past 20 years have seen a resurging interest in whiskey. These days, the most hip and sought-after whiskeys tend to be single-malt Scotch whiskeys. The term “single malt” indicates that the whiskey is made from a malted grain, which in the case of Scotch is always barley, and that the whisky is the unblended product of a single distillery.

Although once produced only in Scotland and Ireland, single-malt whiskeys are now produced the world over in such far-flung places as Virginia and Japan. Single-malt whiskey almost always has a distinctive flavor that is shaped by a number of factors, including the source of the malt and the water, the shape of the still and the type of oak barrels used for aging. Not only do single-malt whiskeys have distinctive flavors, but their flavors tend to be richer than those found in many other distilled spirits. This has made them quite popular among connoisseurs.

In recent decades, as malt whiskey has become trendy among all social groups, it has become surprisingly popular within one seemingly-unlikely niche — the Orthodox Jewish world. Until a few years ago most Orthodox Jewish authorities considered all single-malt whiskeys to be kosher. And while a number of rabbinical authorities have started to question the kashrut of some or all single-malt whiskeys, their popularity in Orthodox Jewish circles has been largely unaffected.

“Whiskey is one place where kashrut does not affect my ability to enjoy one of the finer things in life,” said John Cohen, one of the Orthodox Jewish attendees at this year’s WhiskyFest.

Since its inception in 1997, WhiskyFest has always attracted a sizable number of Orthodox Jews, and the festival has offered a kosher meal plan since 1999. At this year’s WhiskyFest, approximately 10 to 15 percent of the male attendees were wearing yarmulkes or black fedoras, and during the course of the evening there were at least three impromptu Maariv minyanim.

According to Joan McGinley, a manager of publications and events at Malt Advocate and one of the organizers of WhiskyFest, the Orthodox Jews at WhiskyFest tend to “be very knowledgeable . . . they know their whiskey and they are always looking for something new to try.”

Indeed, WhiskyFest is the venue were many distilleries choose to showcase both new and rare whiskeys, and spirits poured at the festival retail for as much as $400 per bottle. Howard Kilgman, one of the Orthodox attendees, who was attending the festival for his eighth time, said he attends WhiskyFest each year because it gives him a chance to “taste some of the more expensive Scotches that I normally would not get a chance to taste.”

WhiskyFest also has an educational component, with seminars on the art of producing and enjoying whiskey. David Adams, a first-time attendee, came to WhiskyFest because he “thought that it would be a good place to learn about Scotches.” However, some attendees merely come for the fun and excitement. Edward and Mindy Plawick, Jewish newlyweds from Beverly Hills, Calif., came to WhiskyFest as “the perfect way to wrap up our honeymoon.”

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An article on WhiskyFest would not be complete without tasting notes for some of the whiskeys available for sampling at the festival. Here are a few of our favorites:

Jameson, Rarest Vintage Reserve, Irish Whiskey: Made from a blend of some of the oldest casks of whiskey at Ireland’s Jameson distillery, this tawny-colored whiskey has a rich nose of butter, saltwater taffy, cinnamon and toffee. Look for flavors of toffee, brown spices, honey, mocha and a charming, gentle I-know-not-what fruit-like sweetness. Score A. $250.

Ardmore, Traditional Cask, Scotch Single-Malt Whisky: This non-vintage whiskey is the first widely-distributed offering from the Ardmore Distillery, in Aberdeenshire, Scotland, to be released in the United States. Matured first in ex-bourbon casks, and then in handmade quarter casks, this rich, gently sweet, copper-colored, medium-bodied whiskey has flavors and aromas of peat, heather, smoke, citrus blossoms and toffee. Score B+. $50.

Suntory, Yamazaki, 18 years old, Single-Malt Japanese Whisky: Made at Japan’s oldest whiskey distillery, this dark gold-colored, full-bodied whiskey has a slightly smoky, herbal nose, with flavors of caramel, lemon, heather, apricots and spices. Score B+/A-. $100.

Woodford Reserve, 1838 Sweet Mash, Bourbon Whiskey: This limited-production whiskey was made in the manner of a mid-19th century bourbon, using a sweet (instead of the now standard sour) mash for the production. This medium-bodied whiskey has a sweet, almost grapey nose, with hints of peaches, quince and marshmallows. Look for flavors of maple syrup, nutmeg, allspice and dried apples. Score A-. $90.
40 Creek, Canadian Whisky: This pot-distilled Canadian whiskey has a medium body, a nose of sweet hay with wine-like hints and well-balanced corn and rye flavors. A good choice for cocktails. Score B. $20.
Gamliel Kronemer writes the Fruit of the Vine column for the paper.

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