For Break The Fast, Let Them Eat Cake

A cookbook author and chef retains some of her mother’s Moroccan food traditions for the holidays.
09/09/2013 - 20:00
Staff Writer

This year as most years, the days before Rosh HaShanah found Kim Kushner, the cookbook author, private chef and recipe developer, perched in the kitchen of the Montreal home where she grew up. Her mother still reigns there, turning out the seemingly endless lunches and dinners of a multi-day holiday and yet somehow, still finding time to tutor a neighbor on the intricacies of a holiday dish.

Of her mother, Kim Kushner says, “[She] expressed all of her hopes and dreams through her food.” Nick Lee

Gluten-Free Cranberry-Orange Noodle Kugel

With the right specialty pasta, a delicious, gluten-free noodle pudding doesn't have to be a contradiction in terms.
Jewish Week Online Columnist

Was there ever a High Holiday season without a noodle kugel on the menu?

Not if you’re Ashkenazi! This is a dish we wait for all year long.

But for those who can’t tolerate gluten protein, Ashkenazi or not, eating noodle kugel can be a nightmare. The pasta we use for our classic kugels are gluten personified, loaded with wheat.

1 cup dried cranberries
1/4 cup orange juice
8 ounces cream cheese
4 ounces butter
1/3 cup sugar
1-1/2 cups sour cream
4 large eggs
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons grated orange rind
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 pound Sam Mills Pasta D’Oro Gluten Free Lasagne Corte

Persian Pomegranate Rice

Enjoy a flavorful, traditional dish for the New Year.

Online Jewish Week Columnist

Pomegranates are both a beautiful, symbolic food for the upcoming Rosh HaShanah holiday, the Jewish New Year, and a traditional Persian ingredient. So I thought they would be a perfect pairing in a rice dish - a staple in Persian households - spiced with classic Persian seasonings. Turmeric, cumin and cinnamon are all ingredients in adwiya, the classic Persian spice mix.

1 cup slivered almonds
2 cups basmati rice
2 tablespoons oil
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon cumin
2 2/3 cup boiling water
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups pomegranate arils
additional salt and pepper to taste

Kosherize It

New England clam chowder gets a kosher makeover that makes it even more delicious.

Special To The Jewish Week

Girl is a passionate, omnivorous, cookbook writer and recipe developer. Girl loves food — all food, even treif.

Girl meets Boy. Girl and Boy fall in love. Boy keeps kosher. Boy does not eat bacon. Girl panics.

2 tbsp unsalted butter
1-2 chipotle peppers (the kind packed in adobo), seeded and chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1 stalk celery, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 cup vegetable or kosher fish stock
8 ounces tilapia or cod fillets, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 small russet potatoes, scrubbed and diced (about 2 cups—leave the peel intact)
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme, or 1/4 teaspoon dried
1 bay leaf
2/3 cup low-fat or whole milk
1 tbsp water
2 tsp cornstarch
1/8 tsp freshly ground pepper
2 tsp chopped fresh parsley, (optional)

Now Pickling Is Popular

Pickling is the new craze, but Jews have been doing it for centuries. 

Special To The Jewish Week

“Everything old is new again.”

In the world of food trends, this has always been true: just like your mom’s bellbottom jeans, which once seemed so dated but which experienced a resurgence in popularity in the ‘90s, dishes once considered passé have come back with a vengeance: think of fondue (currently on the menu at the popular Manhattan restaurant ABC Cocina); the classic cocktail craze that’s sweeping the entire nation and pickles.

1 brisket (6-7 pounds), preferably “second cut,” a fattier, less expensive cut
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp vegetable oil
3 large onions, peeled, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
1 quart prepared sauerkraut, drained, liquid reserved
1 cup dry sherry
½ cup reserved sauerkraut liquid, plus more if needed
14 ripe but firm apricots, halved, pits removed (or use 14 dried apricots)
2 bay leaves
3 whole cloves
Chopped fresh parsley, for serving

Grazia's Mediterranean Lasagna

Lost tribes and hidden Jews returning to the fold offer delicious old and new recipes.
Special To The Jewish Week

Throughout history, entire communities of Jews became "lost" through forced conversions or gradual assimilation. However, in many cases their descendants passed down (more or less secretly) special rules, rituals, names or, most deliciously, recipes, that distinguished them from the surrounding populations.

½ lb egg lasagna
2 lb tomatoes
¾ lb fresh mozzarella, sliced
1 lb eggplant, sliced
1 clove garlic
About 20 leaves basil
1 tbsp oregano
3 tbsp black pitted olives
Salt and pepper to taste
5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Carrot, Apple, and Honey Soup For The New Year

Ras el Hanout, the spice to top all spices, is the perfect blend of flavors for a sweet Rosh Hashanah.

Special To The Jewish Week

Ras el Hanout is not new – but the kosher versions are. A spice blend that is one of the culinary treasures of North Africa, its very name invites you to try it -- translated from Arabic, the words literally mean “top of the shelf.”

2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 large apple, peeled, cored and chopped
2 medium cloves garlic, chopped
1-1/2 lbscarrots, peeled and sliced
4 cups vegetable stock
4 whole cloves
2 tsp Ras el Hanout
1/4 tsp hot sauce (such as Tabasco), optional
Salt to taste
1 tbsp honey
1 cup coconut milk

Crispy Cauliflower Fritters

A hint of curry spices this tasty, latke-esque dish.

Online Jewish Week Columnist

People have weird associations with cauliflower. I was at a Shabbat dinner a few weeks ago when a man was trying to remember the name for cauliflower, and he turned to his wife and said: "you know, white broccoli?" Of course, cauliflower tastes nothing like broccoli, and is actually one of my favorite vegetables for its heartiness and versatility.

1 medium head cauliflower, roughly chopped
1 egg
1 tablespoon curry powder
2/3 to 3/4 cup flour
salt and pepper to taste
oil to fry

Tradition, Against The Grain

Baking for the fall holidays with a gluten-free touch.
08/19/2013 - 20:00
Special To The Jewish Week

Lisa Stander-Horel has vivid memories of growing up, watching her mother create classic Jewish holiday baked goods in their kitchen.

Lisa Standler-Horel and Tim Horel’s apple upside-down cake.

Laying On The Schmaltz

Fat’s chance, again, courtesy of cookbook author Michael Ruhlman.
08/19/2013 - 20:00
Special To The Jewish Week

Michael Ruhlman is on a one-man crusade to bring back schmaltz. A bit surprising for a self-described “goy,” but the award-winning author of more than a dozen cookbooks has long considered himself a “pro-fat proselytizer in a fat-phobic land.” His newest book, “The Book of Schmaltz: Love Song to a Forgotten Fat” (Little, Brown and Company), is a single-minded ode to an ingredient on the verge of extinction.

Fat and flavor: Ruhlman bemoans how schmaltz has been maligned in recent years.
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