Choosing wines to serve with your next grilled meal.
‘Grilling,” opined James Beard, one of the fathers of modern American cookery, “is one of the major culinary arts, and certainly one that has become a way of life in this country.”
In the 30-odd years since Beard wrote these words, if anything, America’s love for grilling has only grown stronger, and for many Americans, grilling is no longer merely a “way of life,” but a real culinary obsession. However, a more significant change since Beard’s day is America’s growing passion for wine, and for many “grillophiles,” good grilling must be accompanied by good wine.
Wine can be a wonder complement to grilled meats, and the right wine can really pair well with the savory nature of a good steak or burger. When choosing wines to serve at a summertime barbecue, particularly if the weather is warm, one should eschew really full-bodied, highly tannic or overly oaky wines, in favor of medium bodied, more fruit-forward wines. Also, the old adage about serving red wines with red meat, and white wines with poultry, need not apply when dining alfresco in the heat of a New York summer; indeed, a well-chilled crisp white or rosé wine can go quite well with red meat right off the grill.
Below are three recently released kosher wines, any of which would be a good choice to go with grilled meat or poultry.
Flam, Blanc, Unoaked, Judean Hills, 2012: This straw-colored, light-to-medium-bodied, Israeli blend of 55 percent Sauvignon Blanc and 45 percent Chardonnay has a lovely nose of apples, lemons and quince, with whiffs of Seville orange, coriander and hay. Look for flavors of apples, citrus and hay, with a hint of spice, and a pleasant note of honey on the finish. Drink well chilled, from now until 2015.
Score B+ ($29.95. Available at the Kosher Wine Company, 2052 Lakeville Rd., New Hyde Park, N.Y.  352-1100.)
Capçanes, Peraj Petita, Rosat, Montsant, 2012: This dark-rose-colored wine is Capçanes’ first kosher rosé — and the first kosher Spanish rosé to be exported to the United States — and it is a truly refreshing wine. Made of a blend of 60 percent Garnacha, 20 percent Tempranillo and 20 percent Merlot, this dry rosé has flavors and aromas of cherries, strawberries and bananas, with a green, woodsy element, and a note of spice. Serve well chilled, and drink within the next 18 months.
Score B+ ($21.99. Available at Beacon Wine & Spirits, 2120 Broadway, Manhattan.  877-0028.)
Chateau de Parsac, Montagne Saint-Emilion, Kosher Edition, 2011: Made in the heart of Bordeaux’s Right Bank, this medium-bodied, garnet-colored blend of 80 percent Merlot and 20 percent Cabernet Franc is a truly delightful wine. Look for flavors and aromas of cherries, currants — both red and black — blackberries, toasty oak, pipe tobacco and a hint of smoked meat. With an abundance of powdery tannins, this wine is everything a budget Bordeaux should be: approachable, well balanced and lively. Drink now until 2016, and if you’re dining outdoors, you may want to serve this with the slightest bit of chill (roughly 55 degrees Farenheit).
Score B+ ($24.99. Available at Flatiron Wine & Spirits, 929 Broadway, Manhattan.  477-1315.)
Gamliel Kronemer writes the Fruit of the Vine column for the paper.
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