‘Grilling,” opined James Beard, one of the fathers of modern American cookery, “is one of the major culinary arts, and certainly one that has become a way of life in this country.”
In the 30-odd years since Beard wrote these words, if anything, America’s love for grilling has only grown stronger, and for many Americans, grilling is no longer merely a “way of life,” but a real culinary obsession. However, a more significant change since Beard’s day is America’s growing passion for wine, and for many “grillophiles,” good grilling must be accompanied by good wine.
Wine can be a wonder complement to grilled meats, and the right wine can really pair well with the savory nature of a good steak or burger. When choosing wines to serve at a summertime barbecue, particularly if the weather is warm, one should eschew really full-bodied, highly tannic or overly oaky wines, in favor of medium bodied, more fruit-forward wines. Also, the old adage about serving red wines with red meat, and white wines with poultry, need not apply when dining alfresco in the heat of a New York summer; indeed, a well-chilled crisp white or rosé wine can go quite well with red meat right off the grill.
Below are three recently released kosher wines, any of which would be a good choice to go with grilled meat or poultry.
Flam, Blanc, Unoaked, Judean Hills, 2012: This straw-colored, light-to-medium-bodied, Israeli blend of 55 percent Sauvignon Blanc and 45 percent Chardonnay has a lovely nose of apples, lemons and quince, with whiffs of Seville orange, coriander and hay. Look for flavors of apples, citrus and hay, with a hint of spice, and a pleasant note of honey on the finish. Drink well chilled, from now until 2015.
Score B+ ($29.95. Available at the Kosher Wine Company, 2052 Lakeville Rd., New Hyde Park, N.Y.  352-1100.)
Capçanes, Peraj Petita, Rosat, Montsant, 2012: This dark-rose-colored wine is Capçanes’ first kosher rosé — and the first kosher Spanish rosé to be exported to the United States — and it is a truly refreshing wine. Made of a blend of 60 percent Garnacha, 20 percent Tempranillo and 20 percent Merlot, this dry rosé has flavors and aromas of cherries, strawberries and bananas, with a green, woodsy element, and a note of spice. Serve well chilled, and drink within the next 18 months.
Score B+ ($21.99. Available at Beacon Wine & Spirits, 2120 Broadway, Manhattan.  877-0028.)
Chateau de Parsac, Montagne Saint-Emilion, Kosher Edition, 2011: Made in the heart of Bordeaux’s Right Bank, this medium-bodied, garnet-colored blend of 80 percent Merlot and 20 percent Cabernet Franc is a truly delightful wine. Look for flavors and aromas of cherries, currants — both red and black — blackberries, toasty oak, pipe tobacco and a hint of smoked meat. With an abundance of powdery tannins, this wine is everything a budget Bordeaux should be: approachable, well balanced and lively. Drink now until 2016, and if you’re dining outdoors, you may want to serve this with the slightest bit of chill (roughly 55 degrees Farenheit).
Score B+ ($24.99. Available at Flatiron Wine & Spirits, 929 Broadway, Manhattan.  477-1315.)
Gamliel Kronemer writes the Fruit of the Vine column for the paper.
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