07/30/13
Food & Wine Editor
Kosher S'mores Indoors

A pro roaster won't settle for anything less than perfection.

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S’mores, in my snobby opinion, are a delicacy. You can’t simply put marshmallows and chocolate over a graham cracker, stick them in the microwave or toaster oven, and call them s’mores.

They require love, care and most importantly, a real flame. Roasting marshmallows over a campfire is the only way to achieve that perfect smoky flavor, but as I live in a New York City apartment, I’ve made do with my gas stovetop flame.

I don’t keep kosher, but I’ve had my fair share of kosher marshmallows during Passover and at Jewish summer camp. Gelatin is the ingredient that gives marshmallows their soft, airy, fluffiness. It’s also the reason they’re not kosher. The kosher, gelatin-free marshmallows I’ve eaten have all been dry, chewy, and leathery. And they are poor roasters.

In honor of national s’mores day on August 10, I embarked on a mission to make s’mores that taste just as good as the Kraft Jet-Puffed-campfire-roasted variety — sans campfire and gelatin.

I first took to the internet in search of kosher marshmallow brands, and one Israeli name caught my eye immediately: Elyon. They are pareve, gluten-free and fat-free marshmallows made using kosher fish gelatin from Nile Perch or Tilapia, sold at any Whole Foods Market.

I picked up a bag, and to my delight, they tasted just like marshmallows should. They’re vanilla-y, soft and squishy, puffy and light, and moist on the inside.

One word of warning: They are ridiculously powdery. Touch just one marshmallow and within seconds your hands and clothes will be covered in powder. People may assume that you’ve been baking all day. Or that you have a cocaine problem.

So… Do they roast well?

Yes! I stuck them on wooden skewers, turned my gas burner flame up to medium-low setting, and took my sweet time. I’m not a fan of intentionally burning marshmallows, though sometimes that happens. The slow-roasted, golden-brown, puffed up, gooey roasted marshmallow is what makes the s’more more than a delicacy, and the skill and patience required to slow-roast is what makes the s'more so much more than a children’s snack.

Once my marshmallow was sufficiently golden, I gingerly set it atop a Honey Maid graham cracker square and a few squares of Hershey's milk chocolate, put another graham cracker square on top, and pressed them together until the marshmallow oozed out of the sides and slightly melted the chocolate.

In Summation: Texture: A+. Appearance: A+. Flavor: A- (As I said above, s'mores are always better over a campfire than in a kitchen.)

emma.jewishweek@gmail.com  |  @JewishWeekFW

Last Update:

12/16/2013 - 15:53

Comments

As the one who burned a fair amount of those marshmallows, I agree with Emma's assessment!

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