New-fangled Boerum Hill deli, run by a Montreal couple, takes aim at excesses of genre.
Special To The Jewish Week
Walking into Brooklyn’s newest Jewish deli for the first time, Ken Goeringer sees two mothers chatting at a table, a pair of art students with a splay of sketchpads arranged around their plates and a man in a shirt and tie looking up from his library book to balance a few bites of brisket-covered poutine (a decadent marriage of frites, cheese curd and gravy) on a fork.
No one expects most Jewish delis to be kosher anymore.
But when you pull Hebrew National salami and Dr. Brown’s soda from the menu — and downsize the iconic, mile-high corned beef sandwich — can you still claim to be a guardian of the great Jewish deli tradition?
Even at Saul’s Deli, a Berkeley, Calif., eatery where the pastrami is grass-fed, the pickles local and Alice Waters’ legendary Chez Panisse is just down the street, sustainably farmed and ethically raised food can be a hard sell to customers craving Jewish comfort food.